Thursday, June 25, 2009

Mushroom Risotto

As I type this, I'm munching on a hunk of aged pecorino from the Basilicata region of Italy. It's super salty, which I love, and has a rich nutty flavor. No wonder, sheep's milk is the highest in fat, sugar, and protein than any other milk used to make cheeses. Totally worth it.

And what should one eat with this cheese? Mushroom Risotto.


To be completely honest, this dish was not actually inspired by the pecorino cheese (that was just a lucky coincidence). What really inspired this dish was the terrible, never-ending, omnipresent rain and clouds that have been covering New York City for the past three weeks or so. Being from Texas, wearing a jacket between the months of May and August has never once crossed my mind for a brief minute. The only exception to this would be when I would want to shield my body from the blasting AC in every building only because the temperatures outside were in the three digits. But here in New York, apparently, it is possible to need a jacket in June. Without a jacket at my disposal, I decided that I would just have to cook myself one; thus, mushroom risotto.

Contents:
  • Onion
  • Olive oil
  • Arborio rice
  • White wine
  • Dried porcini mushrooms
  • Chicken stock
  • Pepper
  • Salt
  • Pecorino cheese
First begin by soaking the dried mushrooms in a small bowl of warm water for at least 20 minutes. Meanwhile, begin simmering the chicken stock on a back burner. Heat the oil in a pan and cook the chopped onions until translucent. Add in the rice and coat with the oil/onion mixture. This is to toast the rice, which will give it a nutty flavor that really adds to the dish. I usually let the rice "toast" for 3 minutes or so. Mix in the rehydrated porcini mushrooms. Pour in about a glass full of white wine. Simmer (little bubbles should appear) until the wine is absorbed by the rice. Now get in a comfortable position (a stool is helpful) because you will be doing this next part for quite a while. Add about a ladle full of the hot chicken stock. Stir the rice gently and occasionally until all of the stock is absorbed. Add another ladle full of stock and repeat. Continue to do this until the rice is tender. (For me this process usually takes me about 40 minutes. Just keep tasting the rice every time after the stock has been absorbed, and you will be able to gauge how much more liquid/time it needs.) Top with freshly grated black pepper and shavings, chunks, or shreds of pecorino cheese.

Notes:
The type and quality of the wine used really does effect how the entire dish will taste. I prefer to use a white wine that has a crisp, fresh kitchen herbs taste versus something that is more fruity and sweet. When heated, the wine becomes more concentrated; thus, the flavor is intensified. And personally, I don't want to be tasting mangoes with my mushrooms.

Now what really gives the mushroom risotto an extra kick is to reserve the mushroom soaking liquid and use it as you would the stock. This liquid has absorbed all of the intensity and flavor of the dried mushrooms. It's like adding pure mushroom essence to the dish. Just make sure to heat it (either by mixing it into the chicken stock or heating it on its own) so the temperature of the dish doesn't drop when you mix it into the warm rice. It is for this reason in particular that I prefer to use the dried mushrooms over fresh mushrooms for this dish.

The reason why risotto is such a creamy dish even when there is no cream what so ever is because the rice itself releases its starches when it is cooked in this manner. To me, this is one of the best dishes to make when it's cold and rainy. Take a warm shower or bath before. Put on your pajamas and some comfy socks. Then begin to cook. Once you are comfortable with the process of making risotto, I think it's an ideal dish to make when you have close friends over. You all can each take turns being the stir-er and you'll have plenty of time to talk/eat little nimblets (mixed cured meats and fresh olives, anyone?) before dinner is served.

And for college kids or people cooking for one, I think mushroom risotto is great because all of the ingredients are not quickly perishable. I find that to be one of the most challenging and intimidating parts of cooking for one. I don't want to cook an entire casserole's worth of food, knowing that I will never possibly be able to finish it all (and I would never dream of letting food go to waste). With the risotto, you can use just the amount you need of the rice, mushrooms, and stock and save whatever is leftover until you need them again.

Perfection!

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